Single minded Highland dreamers

12. Tomatin (18yo, 46%)

So it turns out I'm now basically ignoring the two simple rules I gave myself when I set out on this virtual tour of Scotland's distilleries: 1) the tour was to be virtual (not literal) and 2) I was to taste each distillery's signature malt.
Not a pretty distillery, with the best will in the world.
This weekend I ignored both once more during a weekend jaunt to Aviemore with a literal visit to Tomatin distillery where, after doing the full tour, I plumped for the extravagant £80-a-pop 18yo, rather than the signature 12yo for less than half the price. Life, I reason to myself, is for living.
While the distillery itself is, frankly, ugly, the tour was entertaining and amiable, conducted by a lovely South African woman who was enthusiastic and reasonably knowledgeable. A highlight is the cut away mash tun that you can climb inside. Weirdly satisfying.
For most of its life (since 1897) Tomatin's raison d'etre has been to provide malt whisky to go into various blends, including Johnnie Walker. Not too long ago some bright spark had the idea of producing a few single malts too, although 80% of the distillery's output still goes into blends - including its own Antiquary 18 and 21yo offerings. Although you can get a 1988 single malt if you're interested.
It was, allegedly, the largest malt distillery in Scotland in the late 80s by volume, churning out over 5 million litres, though it produces less than half of that now. This still puts it in the top 10 Scottish distilleries by volume, mind you.
Japanese owned, it's also Scotland's second highest distillery at 315m above sea level, if that makes a difference, and it's a lazy 20 minute drive from Aviemore as we discovered on Saturday.

Tasting notes, after a fashion:

The un-chillfiltered Tomatin 18yo spends most of its life in oak casks before a final two and a half years in Oloroso sherry casks, a fact that smacks you right in the teeth when you get a nose full. Maple syrup and sherry sweet with plenty of sweetcorn, not unlike a good bourbon, plus a wee smoky edge and something vaguely floral. Very reminiscent of bourbon, in fact.
In the mouth it retains the oaky, honeyed sweetness but with an edge of citrus but more lime than lemon. It's a chunky, full bodied whisky but with a silken smoothness with a long, sweet and white peppery finish. The 12yo I tried on the distillery tour was delightful in a light, easy going, laid back kind of way but the 18yo has a depth and complexity that marks it out as something a bit special for me. Love it.

4/5

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